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A tiling quote adds up the area, the tiler's rate for that tile and surface, the tiles themselves and the work needed before the first tile goes down. This guide covers what tilers charge, what changes the price for floors, bathrooms and splashbacks, and the licence and waterproofing rules that apply.
Average cost of hiring a tiler
Tilers set labour rates for the surface and layout. Expect more cutting around fixtures in a shower or splashback than on an open floor. Large-format tiles, natural stone and intricate patterns can also add time.
Tiles are a separate cost. Unless the tiler supplies them, you buy them yourself, and the price depends on the material.
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Ceramic tiles | $30 to $50 per square metre |
| Porcelain tiles | $50 to $100 per square metre |
| Natural stone tiles (marble, granite, travertine) | $80 to $200 per square metre |
| Mosaic tiles | Usually more per square metre than standard tiles, for materials and labour |
Per square metre, per day or a fixed price
Square-metre pricing suits open floors and plain walls. For small jobs, such as a splashback, a few replacement tiles or a regrout, many tilers quote a fixed price or a day rate instead, because the setting up and cleaning takes as long as the tiling. If you're quoted a day rate, ask how many days the tiler expects and what happens if the job runs over.
Use the material and whole-job figures as indicative allowances, and confirm current prices and scope locally. A bathroom renovation quote and a stand-alone tiling quote may include different preparation and waterproofing work.
Cost to tile a floor
To estimate a floor, multiply the area by the tiler's square-metre rate, then add the tiles and the preparation. Preparation is where floor quotes differ most. Old tiles may need to come up, a timber subfloor may need sheeting, and an uneven concrete slab may need levelling compound before tiles can go down. Large-format tiles need a flatter floor than small ones, so they often add preparation as well as labour.
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For a 3 m by 4 m floor, the laid area is 12 m². With a 10% allowance for cuts and spares, you’d plan to buy 13.2 m² before rounding up to full boxes. At the ceramic tile allowance above, that’s $396 to $660 for tiles before box rounding. Check the layout with your tiler before ordering. Ask them to show the measured laying area, the order quantity and the preparation cost separately.
If you're still choosing between tiles, timber, vinyl or carpet, our flooring cost guide compares the options.
Bathroom tiling costs
For planning, allow about $1,000 to $4,000 for bathroom tiling labour, depending on the size of the room, the tile and the layout. Confirm whether strip-out, repairs or waterproofing are part of that labour price. Bathrooms cost more per square metre than an open floor because there's more cutting around the toilet, vanity, shower and niches, and more wall area for the floor size.
Waterproofing comes before the tiles and should be itemised in the quote. The applicable National Construction Code edition, state variations and referenced standards determine the requirements. Housing Provisions Part 10.2 addresses wet areas and references AS 3740. Ask the contractor or certifier which provisions apply and what compliance documentation you receive.
Retiling usually goes with a wider renovation. Our bathroom renovation cost guide covers the full job.
Kitchen splashback and floor tiling costs
The broad $1,500 to $5,000 kitchen tiling allowance covers jobs of different sizes. For a splashback alone, ask for a fixed price for the measured wall and check whether removal and patching are included. A splashback is a small area but slow work: every power point, window edge and benchtop end needs a clean cut, and patterned or mosaic tiles take longer again. Removing an old splashback and patching the wall behind it adds to the quote. For the cost of the whole kitchen, see our kitchen cost guide.
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Factors affecting tiling costs
- Tile type. Porcelain is harder to cut than ceramic, natural stone needs sealing, and mosaics take longer to set out and grout.
- Tile size and layout. Herringbone, diagonal and feature patterns mean more cuts and more waste. Large-format tiles need a very flat surface.
- Area. Larger areas usually get a lower rate per square metre, and small areas a higher one.
- Preparation. Removing old tiles, levelling a floor, sheeting walls and waterproofing are often priced on top of the tiling rate.
- Where you live and access. Rates vary between cities and regional areas, and an upstairs apartment with no lift takes longer to work in than a ground-floor house.
- Tile quality. Check that your chosen tile is rated for where you plan to use it. Changing tile after the quote can also change the laying or cutting cost.
Tip: Buy about 10% more tiles than the area needs and keep the spares. Tile batches vary in colour, so a spare from the original order is the easiest way to fix a cracked tile years later.
Licences and waterproofing rules
Whether a tiler needs a licence depends on your state and the value of the job.
- NSW: the appropriate contractor licence is needed for residential wall and floor tiling valued at more than $5,000, counting labour and materials and including GST.
- Queensland: a QBCC wall and floor tiling licence is needed for tiling work valued at more than $3,300. The licence covers waterproofing done as part of the tiling.
- Other states and territories set their own registration rules and thresholds, so check with your state's building regulator.
Licence exemptions and waterproofing scope can differ, so do not assume a small job is automatically exempt. When a job is close to the line, ask for the tiler's licence number and check it on the regulator's register. In a wet area, the waterproofing also has to meet the National Construction Code.
How to choose a reputable tiling professional
Get two or three quotes for the same scope so you're comparing like with like. These questions show what each quote covers:
- Is the price per square metre, per day or fixed, and what area did you measure?
- Who supplies the tiles, adhesive and grout?
- Does the price include removing old tiles, levelling or sheeting?
- Who does the waterproofing, and to which standard?
- What licence do you hold, and what insurance?
- How long will the job take, and when can the room be used again?
- Can I see photos of similar jobs or talk to a recent customer?
Tip: If one quote is much cheaper than the rest, check what it leaves out. Preparation, waterproofing and taking away the old tiles are the usual gaps.
DIY or a professional tiler
Tiling a small, dry area yourself, such as a laundry splashback, can save the labour cost if you're patient with the layout and the cuts. Floors and wet areas are harder to get right. A floor that isn't flat cracks tiles, uneven grout lines show for as long as the tiles last, and in a bathroom the waterproofing has to meet the National Construction Code. Fixing a failed shower usually means pulling up the tiles and starting again, which usually costs more than hiring a tiler in the first place.
Tiling mistakes that cost money later
Most tiling failures start before the tiles go down. Watch for these when you tile yourself or check a tiler's work.
- Poor surface preparation. Tiles laid on a dusty, damp or uneven surface lift, crack or sound hollow.
- No layout plan. Setting out from a wall that isn't square leaves thin slivers of tile at the edges and wandering grout lines.
- Skipped or rushed waterproofing. Leaks behind tiles cause mould and damage that are expensive to repair.
- Grout mixed or applied badly. Grout that is too wet or too dry cracks and stains.
- Rushing the curing time. Walking on a floor or grouting before the adhesive has set loosens tiles.
- No movement joints. Large tiled areas need flexible joints to cope with temperature changes and building movement, or the tiles crack and tent.
- Ignoring the subfloor. A springy or damaged subfloor moves under the tiles until they crack.
