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The frame is the skeleton of a timber house: the wall frames, the roof trusses or rafters, the floor frame if the house isn't on a slab, and the bracing and tie-downs that hold it all together against the wind. Everything after it, from the roof and windows to the plasterboard and kitchen, is fixed to it.
This guide explains how framers price that work, what moves a quote up or down, how to put together your own rough estimate and what to check before you sign.
How much does timber house framing cost?
Framing prices vary from house to house with the plans, and framers usually quote in one of two ways:
A rate per square metre. The framer multiplies the floor area on your plans by a rate. Check whether the area includes the garage, alfresco and porch, and whether a second storey is charged at a different rate.
A fixed price for the frame stage. The framer prices the whole frame from the plans and the engineering. This is easier to compare, as long as every quote covers the same scope.
Labour only or supply and install?
A labour-only quote covers standing and fixing a frame that someone else supplies, usually made by a frame and truss plant and ordered by your builder. A supply-and-install quote includes the timber, the prefabricated frames and trusses, the fixings and the labour. The two can look very different on paper, so make sure you are comparing like with like.
What a framing quote should include
Wall frames, including lintels over windows and doors
Roof trusses or a cut (rafter) roof, plus fascia if it's part of the frame stage
Floor framing (bearers and joists) if the house sits on piers or stumps
Bracing, tie-downs and the metal connectors the engineering calls for
Any steel or engineered timber beams, and who supplies them
Crane hire, scaffolding and site clean-up, or a note that they're extra
Cladding, roofing, windows and doors are separate trades and are rarely part of a framing quote.
What changes the cost of framing a house
Size, shape and storeys
A bigger floor area means more timber and more labour. Shape matters too: a simple rectangle frames faster than a house with lots of corners, set-downs and raked ceilings. A second storey adds a floor frame, more bracing and work at height, so it can cost more per square metre than a single-storey frame.
Roof design
A simple gable or hip roof built from factory-made trusses goes up quickly. Complex roofs with several hips, valleys or a cut roof built on site take longer and need more skilled labour.
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Engineering and wind rating
Residential timber framing in Australia is designed and built to the AS 1684 series of standards, which the National Construction Code references. The higher your site's wind classification, the more bracing and tie-downs the frame needs, and the more time and hardware go into it. Cyclonic areas are covered by their own part of the standard.
Timber and materials
House frames are commonly built from structural pine, with engineered timber such as LVL used for longer spans and heavier loads. Timber prices move over time, so a supply-and-install quote is only good for as long as its validity period. Ask how long the price holds and how any increase would be handled.
Site and access
A sloping block, tight access or a site that needs a crane to lift trusses into place adds cost. So does a long distance from the framer's base or from the frame and truss plant.
Prefabricated frames and trusses or framing on site
Many new houses use wall frames and roof trusses made in a factory from the plans, then delivered and stood up on site. Prefabrication cuts the time on site and the offcuts, and the plant usually designs the trusses to suit your engineering.
Stick framing, where the carpenter cuts and builds the frame on site, still suits renovations, extensions to older houses, small additions and roofs that a truss plant can't easily make. It takes more labour, but it can be adjusted as the job goes.
For a new house, ask your builder which method they plan to use and why. If you are an owner-builder, get prices from a frame and truss supplier and from framers before you choose.
Framing a wall or a room
Smaller framing jobs, such as a new stud wall to split a room, a partition in a garage or framing out a doorway, are usually quoted as a fixed price by a carpenter. The price depends on the wall's length and height, whether it needs a door opening, and who does the plastering, electrical and painting afterwards.
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Before removing or changing any existing wall, find out whether it's load-bearing. Altering a load-bearing wall usually needs an engineer's design and may need approval. Our guide to what a carpenter costs covers smaller carpentry jobs.
Using a house framing cost estimator
Online framing calculators give a rough figure from a floor area and a rate, but the rate they use may not match your area, your roof or this year's timber prices. You can build a better estimate yourself:
Take the total floor area from your plans, and note the garage and outdoor areas separately.
Ask several framers for their rate per square metre for your type of house and roof, and what that rate includes.
Add the items they list as extra, such as crane hire, scaffolding and steel beams.
Ask a frame and truss supplier for a materials price from the same plans if you are getting labour-only quotes.
Treat the result as a budget figure. Only a quote from the plans and engineering will tell you the real price.
Licences, approvals and inspections
House framing is structural work, so it's covered by your building approval and inspected along the way. In NSW and Queensland the frame is a required inspection stage before it's lined or covered. In other states, ask your building surveyor or certifier which inspections apply. Don't let anyone line the walls until the frame has passed.
Each state also sets the job value above which a builder or carpenter must be licensed or registered. Check your framer's licence or registration on the register of NSW Fair Trading, the QBCC in Queensland, the Building and Plumbing Commission in Victoria or your own state's regulator. Our guide to hiring a builder sets out the licence, insurance and deposit rules in more detail.
How to get accurate framing quotes
Send every framer the same plans, engineering and truss layout.
Ask for the price as both a total and a rate per square metre, so you can see how it was worked out.
Ask what's excluded, and how variations will be priced.
Ask how long the price holds and how long the frame will take to stand.
Check the licence or registration, and ask to see their insurance.
Tip: If one quote is far below the others, check its scope first. A common reason is a missing roof frame, bracing or crane hire, which comes back later as a variation.
Framing is one stage of a bigger project. For the full picture, see our guides to the cost of house extensions, a second-storey addition and a granny flat, or find carpenters near you.
